LEMON – Mary's Home
There was a time in Mary Greenwell“s life when the make-up artist wore so much of the perfume First by Van Cleef & Arpels that she”d scarcely have stuck her toe through the front door before her then flat-mate, the hairstylist Sam McKnight, would shout out, “MARY”S HOME!”
First is a sparkling jasmine and rose concoction with plenty of amber underpinning it, and all the brash audacity of 1976 when it was first created, so it”s no wonder. But would McKnight be shouting out Mary”s arrival quite so soon if she walked through his door now wearing her new fragrance, Lemon? Perhaps, but it would be over a cup of tea by the time she”d kicked off her heels and settled into the sofa for a catch-up. Which, let”s face it, is much more now and far less 1990s, when I imagine they would have been sharing together.
Lemon is Greenwell”s second fragrance, following the sexy, slightly younger feeling Plum that launched a couple of years ago, (“It”s an over-ripe plum, one that has been sitting in the sun for three days, all warm and luscious”). It has already proved to be a hit with two of her clients, Cate Blanchett and Uma Thurman – the make-up artist is also an
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ambassador for Chanel. No wonder, it”s pretty much irresistible and came almost as a “gift” to Mary from her perfumer Francois Robert who initially presented her with something he”d once made for his family over 20 years ago, wondering if she could use it in any way. Nine months later, with a little less of a cologne feel to it and a lot more patchouli, oak moss and amber, as well as a touch of narcissus to link the top with the bottom, Lemon, the fragrance, was born. “It”s divine,” she says. “Everyone loves it.”
Greenwell is the latest in a small but growing line of make-up artists turned perfumers, which includes the likes of Serge Lutens and Terry de Gunzberg, via women like Bobbi Brown and Sylvie Chantecaille. But what”s different with Greenwell is that she doesn”t have a cosmetics brand, nor does she intend to have one. The make-up artist who started out over 30 years ago living in Paris until New York beckoned (where she shared the aforementioned flat with McKnight) is behind some of the key looks of each decade she”s worked in.
What have been her key career moments so far? “Being in Paris in the spring of 1984 was incredible, when all the supermodels rolled up. Linda, Christy, Stephanie, Cindy, Tatiana, they were all babies together, about 15 or 16 years old. I was a little older, but we all stayed together at the Rue St Andre des Arts. It was divine!”
“Then there”s working with Grace Coddington, in the winter of 1985,” she continues. “We were with (photographer) Hans Feurer in Hawaii, shooting for British Vogue, and that was the beginning of a long period of working with Vogue. Are you writing this all down, baby face?” Greenwell … wait, enough with this Greenwell – I can”t keep calling her Greenwell, she”s Mary, warm and lovely and calls me BABYFACE and is not about to be reduced to a surname only – just doesn”t work.. Anyway, MARY leans across the table and taps my notebook, practically turns the page for me, she”s that impatient and knows she”s talking too fast. “Oh and of course, Diana, Princess Diana, with Patrick Demarchelier, shooting the cover for Vogue with Sam (McKnight). That was pretty historic.”
It”s not bad for a first career. Not bad at all. But I have a feeling that thanks to Plum, and now Lemon, and what next exactly, Mary”s second career might be even more exciting.